The Guru’Guay Blog
Bringing you the beef on Uruguay since 2013
Uruguay tourism is about beaches, wine, ranches, Montevideo, culture and architecture. We’ve got info on Colonia del Sacramento, Punta del Este, Ciudad Vieja vs Pocitos, music & celebrations, the meaning of murga in English and way more
Our Latest musings on Tourism in Uruguay
Guru’Guay’s 2020
2020. Working in the travel sector, you can imagine how we were hit. Guru’Guay chews over the pivots to stay afloat & celebrates Uruguay’s ‘good’ pandemic.
José Ignacio: Why a tiny Uruguay beach town became one of the world’s most exclusive vacation spots
First Argentina’s rich & beautiful, then the Hearsts and Rockefellers. Just how did a rocky Uruguay peninsula with dirt roads become a jewel of the jetset?
Second wave: how Uruguay is handling the pandemic
From 20 cases a day in March, to 0 cases in June, for the first time after 9 months of pandemic there are 400+ new coronavirus cases per day in Uruguay. What’s the plan moving forward?
Coronavirus in Uruguay – Status update
If you’re a traveller or expat living in Uruguay, here’s what you need to know about how things stand in Uruguay regarding COVID-19. Updated often.
Art, Music & Film
Bar El Mingus – Chill Out Restobar & Tuesday Jazz
El Mingus is a one of the best restaurants in Montevideo–cool, contemporary, with the intimacy of an old-school bar. We love the great food & live music.
Heidi Lender: stuck in Uruguay in the pandemic
This San Franciscan photographer runs a Uruguay/US creative arts institute. “There’s not a day that I don’t think, I’m the luckiest person in the world.”
5 Uruguayan films you must see
Uruguayan movies tend to be slow burners with lots of critical acclaim. The Guru invites you to put your feet up and enjoy five of the best Uruguayan films.
San Baltasar Carnival parade – January 6
My friend who’s ‘carnival royalty’ says San Baltasar is like carnival was when she was a child. Your chance to see Uruguay carnival just after new year.
Former Uruguay president (& guerrilla) is the star of Netflix
José ‘Pepe’ Mujica was dubbed “the world’s poorest president” for his modest lifestyle and is the subject of a new film by Emir Kusturica.
Montevideo #1 in new travel show
The host of this brand new travel show fell in love with Montevideo. The wine, soccer, carnival, food… so many things to do.
6 reasons why you must not miss carnival in Montevideo
It’s virtually unknown to people outside of Uruguay, but in Montevideo you’ll get to experience one of the most authentic carnivals in the world.
Photography: Montevideo melting pot
After a challenge by a friend, Eliana Cleffi photographed as many nationalities as she could in 100 days in Montevideo–and that started a mammoth project.
5 albums from Uruguay you MUST listen to
The Uruguay music scene has a mixture of rock, pop, tango, folklore, candombe, carnival sounds. Prepare to be surprised by the creativity and quality.
A rainy day in Montevideo? Go to the movies
Montevideo has around more than a dozen movie theatres including 3 non-profit movie theatres. Movies are subtitled so no dubbing.
Zitarrosa: The most Uruguayan singer of them all
When he became famous in the 1960s Alfredo Zitarrosa’s record sales rivalled The Beatles’ in Montevideo. He took Uruguayan folklore music and made it cool.
Montevideo Tales #13
Alien robots wreaking havoc on 18 de julio avenue, firing rockets at Palacio Salvo and bombing Tres Cruces bus station – it’s a ALIEN ATTACK on MONTEVIDEO!!
Carnival in Uruguay – what is murga?
Murga is an instantly recognisable musical style associated with carnival. It’s a uniquely Uruguayan phenomenon, with very distant roots in Cadiz, Spain.
Tango dancing in Montevideo
Dance tango in Uruguay. Especially if you are a beginner or intermediate tango dancer, the tango scene in Montevideo is much friendlier than Buenos Aires.
Experience candombe drummers in the street
To check out authentic candombe in Uruguay, you’ll want to go to a street rehearsal. Where to go, how it works and what to do and what not to do.
New Uruguayan music – the really alternative Latin
Looking for some great music to listen to on the beach? Recommendations for summer listening from the alternative Latin music scene here in Uruguay.
Hollywood blockbuster directed by Uruguay’s Fede Alvarez
Fede Alvarez’s horror film Don’t Breathe became the toast of Hollywood, 6 years after a video he made depicting an alien attack on Montevideo went viral.
A Uruguay rock and pop sampler
Uruguay’s rock and pop scenes have been thriving since the sixties. Here’s some local artists definitely worth checking out while you’re here.
What is candombe?
Candombe is an essential part of Uruguayan culture. Every neighbourhood has its comparsa (troupe), regardless of social class or background.
Best Uruguayan films – Clever #NotForTheMediocre
Uruguay films are characterised as “slow-burns” but this debut film is a hilarious explosion of comedy, martial arts, body-building & tuned-up Chevettes.
Beaches
José Ignacio: Why a tiny Uruguay beach town became one of the world’s most exclusive vacation spots
First Argentina’s rich & beautiful, then the Hearsts and Rockefellers. Just how did a rocky Uruguay peninsula with dirt roads become a jewel of the jetset?
Il Tano Suites – 420-friendly Punta del Diablo hotel
Your suite with private deck, close to secluded beaches, next to Pdd’s best restaurant. Probably the best value of all Punta del Diablo hotels.
Remanso del Diablo Boutique Hotel – on the beach magic
Dreaming of a hotel on the beach in Uruguay? Your private terrace looks directly to the ocean at this magical boutique hotel nestled amongst the dunes.
Maralto – Oceanside vacation rentals in La Pedrera
Vacation rentals can be a bit of a lottery in Rocha, the province of Uruguay with many of the nation’s best beaches. Maralto ticks all the right boxes.
Where are the best beaches in Uruguay?
A secret for North Americans and Europeans, Uruguay’s beaches have been a favourite with Argentinians for years. So where are the best beaches in Uruguay?
Casa Flor – live the Uruguay coast like a local (VIP)
One of the very best hotels near Punta del Este, whose well-connected owners will give you access to the secrets of Uruguay’s coast most can only dream of.
Casa Quetzal – exclusive Punta del Este
Considering where to stay in Punta del Este? This striking hotel with pool amongst rolling hills is just minutes from Uruguay’s most exclusive beach spots.
Posada Lune de Miel – best value Punta del Diablo hotel
These impeccable, colourful cabins are the best value hotel you’ll find in Punta del Diablo. Just minutes from the beach with a lovely central pool.
Jose Ignacio – a billionaire playground with valet parking signs in the sand
Elon Musk and a Murdoch Jr have owned houses in tiny Jose Ignacio. But we’re still at the beach, in Uruguay. So streets are unpaved and service unhurried.
Big Bang Nature Stays – Bohemian beach domes
A perfect destination for families & people looking to reconnect with nature–with luxury touches–on the ocean and one of Uruguay’s most deserted beaches.
8 things to do in Punta del Este
Argentines and Brazilians LOVE ‘Punta’–it’s Uruguay’s glamour puss beach resort. So you may be surprised at some of our must-do things to do.
The sunset from Casapueblo – a Punta classic
An artist’s cliff-hugging summer house literally grew and grew as he expanded it to host friends such as Brigitte Bardot.
Cabo Polonio – Lost island in a sea of dunes
Deserted beaches, rocky islands heaving with baying seals & tiny colourful shacks. Cabo Polonio, Uruguay is unforgettable.
5 amazing beaches in Rocha, Uruguay
Without a doubt, Rocha has some of the very best beaches in Uruguay. And they’re almost totally deserted for virtually ten months of the year.
What beach warning flags mean in Uruguay
What’s that green cross on the red flag all about? Wondering what the lifeguard flags in Uruguay mean? Check out the beach warning code.
Best place to watch the sunset in Montevideo
7pm on a summer’s evening. The sun will be going down in under an hour. Where’s the best spot to kick back and watch the sun go down over the city skyline?
Not just great culture. Montevideo has 10 fine beaches
The capital of Uruguay has beaches with fine white sand, great for paddling or swimming, kitesurfing, with fairgrounds, and wheel-chair access.
Punta del Diablo – where hippie meets hip
A fishing town with dirt roads is one of Uruguay’s most popular beaches. Is it the brightly-painted cabins, sweeping unspoilt beaches or the hippie-chic?
Whale-watch in Uruguay
In Uruguay you can watch whales close-up from the beach. Save yourself an expensive trip to Patagonia & feel great that your viewing generates zero stress.
Atlántida – wide sandy beaches 30 miles from Montevideo
Fine white sands, pines, 2 mysterious structures – an eagle head & a world-reknowned church. The Uruguay beach of Atlantida is just 30 mins from Montevideo.
Countryside & Outdoors
Amazing coincidences for Russian stranded in Uruguay
Finding herself stranded in Uruguay on a biking holiday, Kate Chernysheva couldn’t believe her eyes as she rode into tiny San Javier. Find out why.
Canada motor-bikers in a pandemic in Uruguay
Fearful after hearing scary stories from elsewhere in Latin America, this adventure motorcycle couple’s experience in Uruguay couldn’t have been better.
The extraordinary murals of 25 de agosto
The sleepiest little towns in Uruguay can be full of surprises. This one just an hour from Montevideo is home to over 100 murals by a French artist.
Hotel Solis – historic, coastal B&B
Be a part of history. Once the best hotel in Uruguay-and British spy HQ in WW2!-, nestling by beaches, wineries and trekking, and being lovingly restored.
Haras Las Tordillas – A horse-riding paradise
A luxury lodge nestling in the hills of Eden. A secret spot for horse-riding in Uruguay. For horse lovers, wine lovers & lovers of peace & tranquility.
Estancia El Ceibo – deepest Uruguay with minimal travel
It can take hours along pot-holed roads to reach the best estancias in Uruguay. This ranch, virtually unchanged since 1849, is just an hour from Montevideo.
8 things to do in Punta del Este
Argentines and Brazilians LOVE ‘Punta’–it’s Uruguay’s glamour puss beach resort. So you may be surprised at some of our must-do things to do.
The WHALES are back in Uruguay!
The first sighting of whales in Uruguay this year was in May. They’ll be around until November. So where’s the best place to watch whales?
Gaucho week in Montevideo – Easter
Traditional food, handmade goods, and South American cowboys riding wild horses. It’s the Semana Criolla – Montevideo’s Easter gaucho festival.
San Pedro de Timote – historic Uruguay countryside hotel
Uruguay’s best-known countryside hotel – relax by the pool, horse-ride, fantastic for families. Just 2.5 hrs from Montevideo.
Estación Penitente – Magical hill-top restaurant in Minas, Uruguay
Overlooking Uruguay’s Sierras de Minas, with views reminiscent of Greece. Traditional cooking, Uruguayan BBQ & wild boar. Day trip from Montevideo & Punta.
Colonia, Uruguay’s UNESCO World Heritage site
Essential information so that your stay in Colonia fits effortlessly into your travel schedule as you travel between Buenos Aires and Montevideo.
Experience candombe drummers in the street
To check out authentic candombe in Uruguay, you’ll want to go to a street rehearsal. Where to go, how it works and what to do and what not to do.
Uruguay is a whale and dolphin sanctuary – and that’s official
In 2013, the Uruguayan parliament voted unanimously (62-0) to turn Uruguayan waters into a protected area for whales and dolphins.
Los Platanos – an authentic estancia run by 6th generation
A lovely working ranch in a remote spot of the rolling sierras of central Uruguay run by the same family for over 150 years.
The bell tower in the middle of nowhere
Looking for unique things to do in Uruguay? Be one of the only overseas travelers ever to climb to the top of this carillon in remote Cerro Colorado.
San Pedro de Timote – Uruguay’s most historic estancia
For 200 years, Estancia San Pedro de Timote has been the pride of Uruguay. Today it’s a historic country hotel where you can go riding and meet gauchos.
Driving in the Uruguay countryside
Driving in the interior of Uruguay is a real pleasure. Calculate a little extra time and relax on some of the emptiest roads in the world.
Exploring the Uruguayan interior
Deepest Uruguay begins just an hour from the capital. Explore centuries-old ranches, a village with 100 murals, a Milk Festival & ghostly train stations.
Sailing lessons, boat & windsurf rental in Montevideo
At Full Sailing, you hire a boat, board, kayak or instructor by the hour. It’s a perfect option in Uruguay, where most sailing clubs are members-only.
Getting to Uruguay
Uruguay borders to remain closed for the austral summer
To conserve its exemplary COVID-19 response, President Lacalle announced on October 22, Uruguay will not be open to international tourism this summer.
Status update: Flights to Uruguay
A collection of the latest information on flights and flying to Uruguay. Read our update regarding opening the borders to travelers.
Flights resume to Uruguay
Good news. A number of airlines have resumed flights several times a week to Montevideo, Uruguay since July. Bookmark this page for updates.
Getting to Uruguay
“The great advice in your guide saved me $500USD on my airline ticket!” How to get to Uruguay from Argentina, Brazil, Europe, USA and Iguazú.
Flights to Uruguay: the best and worst airlines
The Guru gives you her honest take on airlines flying to Uruguay from the USA, Europe, Buenos Aires, Argentina & the Iguazu falls. UPDATED.
How much does the Montevideo-Buenos Aires ferry cost?
Following Guru’Guay’s super popular article on the best way to travel Montevideo-Buenos Aires, an update on the current price of ferry and bus tickets.
What is the best way to travel from Buenos Aires to Montevideo?
Guru’Guay looks at the fastest, cheapest & most relaxing ways of going Uruguay to Argentina and back by ferry, plane and bus.
Buying ferry tickets from Buenos Aires to Colonia, Uruguay
Planning a day-trip to Colonia from Buenos Aires? Guru’Guay looks at the ferry options, price of tickets, schedules. And reasons to stay longer.
9 tips to buying Buenos Aires to Uruguay ferry tickets
The Uruguay-Argentina ferry sites are getting better but buying tickets online can still be frustrating. Pour yourself a glass of red and follow the Guru.
What is the best way to travel from Buenos Aires to Montevideo?
Guru’Guay looks at the fastest, cheapest & most relaxing ways of going Uruguay to Argentina and back by ferry, plane and bus.
Food & Drink
Bar El Mingus – Chill Out Restobar & Tuesday Jazz
El Mingus is a one of the best restaurants in Montevideo–cool, contemporary, with the intimacy of an old-school bar. We love the great food & live music.
Cabaña de Veronica – Great steak & Uruguay asado
The Port Market–Disneyland for carnivores–is not to be missed but avoid the tourist traps! At Veronica’s, you’re guaranteed great steak & Uruguayan asado.
Il Tano Cucina – pasta & seafood in Punta del Diablo
One of the best seafood restaurants in Punta del Diablo & open all year round. Family-run, it’s minutes from the ocean & specialises in home-made pastas.
10 Uruguay foods you must try
Typical Uruguay food — chivito, tira de asado, pamplona, torta frita, alfajor, dulce de leche… We go through each one, what it is and how you say it.
Recommended food delivery and take away in Punta del Este
Our favourite foodie restaurants have pivoted to what is most helpful and safe right now – take away and delivery. Organic veggies around Punta del Este.
Punta & Montevideo chefs organise communal pots
A volunteer team has commandeered a luxury hotel kitchen and is making hot, nutritious meals for hundreds of adults and children. Find out how you can help.
Best food delivery and take away in Montevideo
In Montevideo during coronavirus? Shelter in place. Order delivery of delicious food (and wine and beer – of course) including organic from trusted sources.
Organic produce delivery – Montevideo & Punta
Get organic fruit and vegetables, fresh eggs and honey direct to your door. Organic food baskets delivered in Montevideo and Punta del Este.
What eating out costs in Uruguay
I often get asked about costs in Uruguay. Get an idea what you are likely to spend on food and drink when eating out at restaurants and bars. UPDATED.
Salon No. 3 – La Barra cuisine
New La Barra restaurant in a vintage furniture store. Pull up a chair in the kitchen as the chef preps just-caught fish & his home-grown organic veggies.
Doña Martina – Classic empanadas at their freshest
A traditional street food in Uruguay is the empanada. This is the very best empanada place we’ve found with a mind-blowing 50+ fillings to choose from.
Tribu – Arts centre & resto-bar with art deco vibes
A hub of live music, candombe jams, art & design pop-ups, LGBTQ+–, a must-do on your list of things to do in Montevideo at night.
The history of the chivito – Uruguay’s gigantic steak sandwich
This classic Uruguayan sandwich is soooo good. What’s in a chivito, why does its name refer to a goat when it’s beef, and WTF is a chivito ‘canadiense’?
Montevideo #1 in new travel show
The host of this brand new travel show fell in love with Montevideo. The wine, soccer, carnival, food… so many things to do.
Arazá – Native Uruguay cuisine
Native Uruguay cuisine in Montevideo. Special events include monthly expeditions to El Prado park to identify local plants–and after you get to taste them.
May in Montevideo: Degusto gastronomy fair
Bringing together more than 80 foodie initiatives and live music over one weekend, Degusto takes place in May and October each year in Carrasco, Montevideo.
Es Mercat – The best fish restaurant in Montevideo
We wager Es Mercat is the very best fish and seafood restaurant in the whole of Montevideo. Ask the chef to choose what you eat, for the best experience.
Club del Pan – Legendary sandwiches in Parque Rodó
A tiny corner cafe off the rambla. Gigantic sandwiches made with sourdough from a legendary baker. Excellent coffee. An essential stop in Montevideo.
Sin Pretensiones – Gourmet Uruguay comfort food
Local dishes–Montevideo Uruguay food–just like Mamá made, served exquisitely in a vintage furniture store in the Old City. Gourmet chivito & great prices.
Café Gourmand — great weekend breakfast and brunch, coffee roaster
A French-inspired bistro & bakery in Montevideo with great service, always freshly-baked bread and pastries and great coffee at affordable prices.
Mercado Ferrando – Gourmet & street food market
Open from 8am till late every day, the Market’s foodie focus and art-deco building means it should be on your list of things to do in Montevideo.
Lobo Suelto – Best little foodtruck in the East
The best traditional food in Uruguay between the airport and the beach. Chivito, seafood and salads, all locally sourced–& veggies from their garden.
Estación Penitente – Magical hill-top restaurant in Minas, Uruguay
Overlooking Uruguay’s Sierras de Minas, with views reminiscent of Greece. Traditional cooking, Uruguayan BBQ & wild boar. Day trip from Montevideo & Punta.
Sometimes Sunday Cafe – Outstanding Montevideo coffee shop
OMG, the eggs in salsa and Bloody Mary. Breakfast, all-day brunch and the best coffee at this Colombian-owned coffee shop in Montevideo’s old town.
5 foods you need to try at the beach in Uruguay
Looking for the best seafood in Uruguay? The cuisine of Uruguay’s most eastern province, Rocha, is chock full of fresh seafood.
What do Uruguayans eat?
What do Uruguayans eat (and drink)? A “tourist shopping basket”–to keep prices down in vacation hot spots–reveals all. Hint. It includes whiskey.
My top 3 places to eat in Montevideo’s Old City
The Guru recommends her three fav watering holes in Ciudad Vieja, the old town of Montevideo – amazing fish, all-Uruguayan wine-tasting and VEGGIES!!!
The 20 very best Uruguayan wines
Uruguay’s wine production is small yet magnificent. Here’s the very best from the Guru’Guay Guide to Uruguay, a guide to wine country and more.
Best place to watch the sunset in Montevideo
7pm on a summer’s evening. The sun will be going down in under an hour. Where’s the best spot to kick back and watch the sun go down over the city skyline?
6 best beers for summer in Uruguay
Daniel Rocamora, Uruguay’s foremost craft beer expert, chooses this summer’s best craft beers. Hit the beach and carnival with six of the best.
Wine & Wineries
Baco – Montevideo’s top wine restaurant
A French bistro with probably the longest wine list in the city and multiple by-the-glass choices is one of the best new Montevideo restaurants by far.
Los Nadies – Premium wine tasting in Montevideo
Your chance to taste some of the best Uruguay wines at the hand of one of the top three wine-makers in Uruguay at his home and winery minutes from downtown.
Wine delivery around Montevideo
Stay safe and still get hold of your favourite Uruguay wines. Call in your order by WhatsApp and the wines arrive at your door. Easy as that.
The Top Tannats of 2020
One in three bottles of Uruguay wine is a Tannat. Yes, Uruguayans LOVE this red. Nowadays there’s a Tannat for every occasion. We celebrate the Top Tannats.
Feel good in quarantine: 10 minutes in a parallel universe
Join us as we parachute in on a virtual visit to a Uruguay wine-maker. Harvest is just ending and there’s some feel good news, it’s the BEST in 40 years.
Montevideo #1 in new travel show
The host of this brand new travel show fell in love with Montevideo. The wine, soccer, carnival, food… so many things to do.
Two of the world’s top 50 wineries are in Uruguay
Bodegas Garzon and Bouza have ranked #2 and #44 amongst the world’s top 50 wineries. What other wineries to visit when you’re in Uruguay?
Your Personal Wine Shopper in Montevideo
Can you believe this? A personalised wine delivery service in Montevideo. Adriana selects Uruguay wine to your taste and budget & delivers to your home.
An introduction to Uruguay wine country
Uruguay is the new world’s undiscovered wine gem. Plan your trip to Uruguay wine country. Tips to regions, wine tasting in Montevideo & private wine tours.
Artesana – Uruguay vineyard for foodies
Besides great wine, in our experience, this award-winning women-run winery 45 minutes from Montevideo, has the BEST lunch of Uruguay vineyards.
Montevideo Wine Experience
A stone’s throw from the famous Port Market, lies Montevideo’s first ever 100% Uruguay wine tasting bar. A great place to get oriented to life in the city.
Mercado Ferrando – Gourmet & street food market
Open from 8am till late every day, the Market’s foodie focus and art-deco building means it should be on your list of things to do in Montevideo.
Manuel Filgueira: Ninja winemaking in Uruguay
Trained in elite French chateaux but down to earth, Manuel Filgueira is one of Uruguay’s top winemakers, producing tiny quantities of exceptional wine through “sheer stubbornness”.
The 20 very best Uruguayan wines
Uruguay’s wine production is small yet magnificent. Here’s the very best from the Guru’Guay Guide to Uruguay, a guide to wine country and more.
Wine tasting in Uruguay vs Napa, California
Take it from the Tannat Queen. If you want a wine tasting experience to remember – and generous pours! – Uruguay beats Napa hands down.
Wine tasting in Carmelo
Wine tasting at the unique family-run boutique wineries of Carmelo, Uruguay. Plan your route, find contact details and prices.
Carmelo: The Uruguayan Tuscany
Not a huge amount to things to do in Carmelo, besides drink wine. Thank god! Visit vineyards, drink fine wine & relax in a tiny Tuscany without the hordes.
6 Uruguayan wines you MUST try
Argentinians know wine. Local expert Claudio Angelotti selects neighbour Uruguay’s best wines. The Guru translates his recommendations for your enjoyment.
3 Uruguayan white wines you must not miss
Uruguayan red wines may get all the press but descendents of Spaniards are producing some great whites – albariño, cocó and cabernet blanc.
Uruguay wines vs. Argentina’s, who comes out top? You may be surprised
A lot of people were suprised when Financial Times wine expert Jancis Robinson ranked several Uruguay wines higher in 2013. A new South American wine giant.
Getting Around
How to get from the Montevideo airport to the city
The Montevideo international airport is 15 miles from the city centre. You can take a taxi, shuttle or bus. The most common way is private transfer.
Great little car rental company in Uruguay
Unashamed shout-out for local car hire company, Mariño Sport, in Uruguay. I’ve been impressed by their great service and personal touch since 2010.
Transportation in Uruguay: Travelling around by bus
It’s easy to travel around Uruguay by bus, even if you don’t speak Spanish. A centralised website collects timetables, travel durations and ticket prices.
Get around Montevideo like a local
And not like a tourist. This interactive map loads really fast. Use it to travel by bus or on foot and get around Montevideo like a local.
Driving in the Uruguay countryside
Driving in the interior of Uruguay is a real pleasure. Calculate a little extra time and relax on some of the emptiest roads in the world.
If you drive in Uruguay, NO drinking alcohol
There’s zero tolerance. Not even a glass. The police are hot on breathalysing tourists right now. And the consequences could be worse than you think.
Getting around: buses, taxis and walking
Getting around like a local. Flag down the bus – or it won’t stop. Don’t tip your taxi driver – but don’t expect him to load your luggage! Essential maps.
Help! I don’t speak Spanish and I need to call a cab!
How to call for a cab in Montevideo–it’s easy, even when you don’t speak Spanish–, how much they cost, when it may be difficult to get hold of one.
Even the buses have free wifi!
It’s really, really easy to get online in Uruguay. In fact, Uruguay is the only country in the world to completely implement One Laptop Per Child.
Holidays & Festivals
San Baltasar Carnival parade – January 6
My friend who’s ‘carnival royalty’ says San Baltasar is like carnival was when she was a child. Your chance to see Uruguay carnival just after new year.
Uruguay’s Kentucky Derby – January 6
One of the best things to do in Montevideo is visit the horse races. Fun for the family and for architecture buffs the art-deco stadium. Fridays & Sundays.
Montevideo #1 in new travel show
The host of this brand new travel show fell in love with Montevideo. The wine, soccer, carnival, food… so many things to do.
Montevideo Carnival 2020 dates
Montevideo has the world’s longest carnival starting January thru early March. We’ve got the links you need in English about where to go and what to see.
6 reasons why you must not miss carnival in Montevideo
It’s virtually unknown to people outside of Uruguay, but in Montevideo you’ll get to experience one of the most authentic carnivals in the world.
May in Montevideo: Degusto gastronomy fair
Bringing together more than 80 foodie initiatives and live music over one weekend, Degusto takes place in May and October each year in Carrasco, Montevideo.
The carnival whisperer – SOLD OUT for 2020
Your tour guide will be Christine, the “carnival whisperer”. A long-time Uruguay & Montevideo resident, German-American she has a real passion for carnival.
Public holidays in Uruguay
It’s a good idea to know when public holidays in Uruguay are as most shops close. Public transport is also limited but to a lesser extent.
Gaucho week in Montevideo – Easter
Traditional food, handmade goods, and South American cowboys riding wild horses. It’s the Semana Criolla – Montevideo’s Easter gaucho festival.
What’s worth checking out in Carnival
Carnival starts late January till early March. Yes, it’s the world’s longest carnival. The parades and shows you must not miss, where to buy tickets, etc.
Feb 2 – Yemanjá, Sea Goddess Day
A special festival for devotees of Umbanda. The best place to watch the celebrations is Playa Ramirez, Montevideo at sundown.
Carnival in Uruguay 2019: Montevideo attractions and dates
Montevideo has the world’s longest carnival starting January thru early March. We’ve got the links you need in English about where to go and what to see.
Carnival in Uruguay – what is murga?
Murga is an instantly recognisable musical style associated with carnival. It’s a uniquely Uruguayan phenomenon, with very distant roots in Cadiz, Spain.
Experience candombe drummers in the street
To check out authentic candombe in Uruguay, you’ll want to go to a street rehearsal. Where to go, how it works and what to do and what not to do.
April – anniversary of the world’s most famous tango
The world’s most famous tango song is over 100 years old–and it’s Uruguayan! Every year a week-long festival in April commemorates The Cumparsita.
Weird weather in Uruguay – the Storm of Santa Rosa
A violent storm hits Uruguay and parts of Argentina at the same time every year. Urban myth? Or is there some truth to this weird weather phenomenon?
Why Uruguayans celebrate Tourism Week – not Easter
40% of Roman Catholics live in Latin America but as usual Uruguay does its own thing. There’s complete separation of church and state for almost 100 years.
Buying tickets for concerts and carnival
You can buy tickets for concerts and carnival shows in Montevideo at box offices and Abitab and Red Pagos/RED UTS – the stores are found all over Uruguay.
Montevideo over New Year? 5 things you need to know
Between Christmas & New Year, Montevideans leave town in droves. So what to do you do? There’s still the beaches, tango, fireworks and… water fights!
Progressive Society
Gay Montevideo
Montevideo – the capital of the friendliest country in South America. And it’s Uruguay’s version of ‘Pride’–known as the Diversity March–this Friday!
US actor turned digital nomad finds Uruguay ideal place to settle
When Chris locked his New York City apt door in Dec 2019, he never imagined he’d be moving out of it, in a pandemic, via WhatsApp and from Montevideo.
Pregnant, South African and stuck in a pandemic in Uruguay
This South African has had a crash-course on life in Uruguay–and healthcare–after finding herself stuck here on her ‘baby moon’ during COVID-19.
Latin America’s first Earthship hotel under construction in Uruguay
Not only does Uruguay have Latin America’s first ‘earthship’ school, but soon it’ll have the first ecological bioconstruction hotel in historic Colonia.
Zitarrosa: The most Uruguayan singer of them all
When he became famous in the 1960s Alfredo Zitarrosa’s record sales rivalled The Beatles’ in Montevideo. He took Uruguayan folklore music and made it cool.
Uruguay is a whale and dolphin sanctuary – and that’s official
In 2013, the Uruguayan parliament voted unanimously (62-0) to turn Uruguayan waters into a protected area for whales and dolphins.
Why did Uruguay legalise cannabis?
Anyone that knows Uruguayan politics will not be surprised at the seemingly audacious policy to legalise cannabis. It’s part of a long political tradition.
Uruguay has gay friendly business certification
“Businesses welcome guidance around what’s appropriate and respectful.” Uruguay certified the first officially gay friendly market in Latin America.
Can foreigners buy marijuana in Uruguay?
Weed is legal in Uruguay but as a non-resident you won’t be able to buy cannabis. But you can receive gifts & smoke in public.
The Montevideo Marijuana Museum
The Cannabis Museum puts the country’s ground-breaking legislation in context and explains, why for Uruguayans, it’s not as radical as you might think.
#GottaLoveUruguay – Tu Piano – music for the people
A piano sits in the open air in a square in Montevideo. And anyone’s welcome to play it. See what happens…
Why we love Montevideo
Montevideo is often overshadowed by Buenos Aires. Three well-travelled bloggers tell what made them fall in love with South America’s off-the-radar capital.
Uruguay tops the Americas Social Inclusion Index—again
For the third year running, Uruguay ranks at the top of the fourth annual 2015 Americas Quarterly Social Inclusion Index, beating the USA into second place.
Uruguay president gives hitch-hiker a ride
President picks up hitch-hiker – only in Uruguay. Once again President Pepe Mujica proves that he is made of different stuff from other world leaders.
Uruguay – most gay friendly country in South America
… and 9th friendliest in the world, says the Spartacus International Gay Guide. Yep, homosexuality has been legal here for EIGHTY years.
Why Uruguayans celebrate Tourism Week – not Easter
40% of Roman Catholics live in Latin America but as usual Uruguay does its own thing. There’s complete separation of church and state for almost 100 years.
Uruguayans invented the mammogram and the birth control pill
As 10% of all women get breast cancer, the mammogram is arguably among the most important techniques of the last century in advancing women’s health.
Uruguay is the best countreeee — Joke becomes national hit
Uruguay turned a national in-joke into an international tourism campaign. Do you think it works?
Even the buses have free wifi!
It’s really, really easy to get online in Uruguay. In fact, Uruguay is the only country in the world to completely implement One Laptop Per Child.
Staying Safe & Healthy
Second wave: how Uruguay is handling the pandemic
From 20 cases a day in March, to 0 cases in June, for the first time after 9 months of pandemic there are 400+ new coronavirus cases per day in Uruguay. What’s the plan moving forward?
Coronavirus in Uruguay – Status update
If you’re a traveller or expat living in Uruguay, here’s what you need to know about how things stand in Uruguay regarding COVID-19. Updated often.
Status update: Flights to Uruguay
A collection of the latest information on flights and flying to Uruguay. Read our update regarding opening the borders to travelers.
Can I get into Uruguay right now?
Are you trying to travel to Uruguay right now? Find out what the current entry requirements are and if you meet them. UPDATED.
Love & shelter in Uruguay for Clipper round the world sailor
When the Clipper Round the World race was called off, Spaniard Clara Carrington followed her heart 11,000 miles to Uruguay, making it as the borders closed.
US actor turned digital nomad finds Uruguay ideal place to settle
When Chris locked his New York City apt door in Dec 2019, he never imagined he’d be moving out of it, in a pandemic, via WhatsApp and from Montevideo.
Canada motor-bikers in a pandemic in Uruguay
Fearful after hearing scary stories from elsewhere in Latin America, this adventure motorcycle couple’s experience in Uruguay couldn’t have been better.
Flights resume to Uruguay
Good news. A number of airlines have resumed flights several times a week to Montevideo, Uruguay since July. Bookmark this page for updates.
Pregnant, South African and stuck in a pandemic in Uruguay
This South African has had a crash-course on life in Uruguay–and healthcare–after finding herself stuck here on her ‘baby moon’ during COVID-19.
We were looking for a sense of community. We found it in a pandemic in Uruguay
Kris and Ryan from Oakland, California’s round-the-world trip came to an abrupt stop as they found themselves stuck in Uruguay. But they have no regrets.
How to describe a cough or cold in Spanish
Spanish varies a lot from country to country. Here are some expressions used in Uruguay to get medication, teas & sympathy for your cough, flu or sickness.
Herbal remedies for coughs and colds in Uruguay
Useful expressions to help you describe your cough and/or cold while you are in Uruguay, so that you can get some decent medication, teas and sympathy.
Post pandemic, US & Europeans want to move to safe Uruguay
There’s a boom in real estate enquiries following Uruguay’s solid response to COVID-19, demonstrating it’s one of the safest countries to live in the world.
Recommended food delivery and take away in Punta del Este
Our favourite foodie restaurants have pivoted to what is most helpful and safe right now – take away and delivery. Organic veggies around Punta del Este.
Punta & Montevideo chefs organise communal pots
A volunteer team has commandeered a luxury hotel kitchen and is making hot, nutritious meals for hundreds of adults and children. Find out how you can help.
Best food delivery and take away in Montevideo
In Montevideo during coronavirus? Shelter in place. Order delivery of delicious food (and wine and beer – of course) including organic from trusted sources.
Feel good in quarantine: 10 minutes in a parallel universe
Join us as we parachute in on a virtual visit to a Uruguay wine-maker. Harvest is just ending and there’s some feel good news, it’s the BEST in 40 years.
Uruguay country hotels in times of quarantine
Corona has left visitors stranded in Uruguay. Two beautiful, isolated country hotels, close to the airport, & run by their owners, are still taking guests.
Organic produce delivery – Montevideo & Punta
Get organic fruit and vegetables, fresh eggs and honey direct to your door. Organic food baskets delivered in Montevideo and Punta del Este.
Is Montevideo safe?
Montevideo is one of the safest cities in Latin America but it is still a capital city. Take the regular precautions — and you’ll be just fine. Read on.
The Uruguayan Character
Heidi Lender: stuck in Uruguay in the pandemic
This San Franciscan photographer runs a Uruguay/US creative arts institute. “There’s not a day that I don’t think, I’m the luckiest person in the world.”
7 amazing facts about Uruguay national football team
More international footballing titles, two World Cups, the first soccer sex symbol and the best football anthem. Not bad for a nation of 3 million, eh?
Amazing coincidences for Russian stranded in Uruguay
Finding herself stranded in Uruguay on a biking holiday, Kate Chernysheva couldn’t believe her eyes as she rode into tiny San Javier. Find out why.
Love & shelter in Uruguay for Clipper round the world sailor
When the Clipper Round the World race was called off, Spaniard Clara Carrington followed her heart 11,000 miles to Uruguay, making it as the borders closed.
Canada motor-bikers in a pandemic in Uruguay
Fearful after hearing scary stories from elsewhere in Latin America, this adventure motorcycle couple’s experience in Uruguay couldn’t have been better.
We were looking for a sense of community. We found it in a pandemic in Uruguay
Kris and Ryan from Oakland, California’s round-the-world trip came to an abrupt stop as they found themselves stuck in Uruguay. But they have no regrets.
Former Uruguay president (& guerrilla) is the star of Netflix
José ‘Pepe’ Mujica was dubbed “the world’s poorest president” for his modest lifestyle and is the subject of a new film by Emir Kusturica.
Uruguay in the Rugby World Cup
World famous for soccer, turns out Uruguay has the #2 rugby team in South America. Guru’Guay investigates and is on the BBC during the Rugby World Cup.
Montevideo Tales #12
Two old ladies walk in to a cafe, then one makes a confession. This story feels so Uruguayan to me that I’m still mulling over all the reasons why.
Why does the tourist industry in Montevideo close down at peak visitor times?
The truth is out. Montevideans just don’t care that much about taking your tourist dollars. They’d rather spend the holidays with their family and friends.
Manuel Filgueira: Ninja winemaking in Uruguay
Trained in elite French chateaux but down to earth, Manuel Filgueira is one of Uruguay’s top winemakers, producing tiny quantities of exceptional wine through “sheer stubbornness”.
Experience candombe drummers in the street
To check out authentic candombe in Uruguay, you’ll want to go to a street rehearsal. Where to go, how it works and what to do and what not to do.
10 reasons I love living in Uruguay: By a Uruguayan
Living in Uruguay, I also experience the same kind of small kindnesses and unsolicited courtesies Susana mentions almost every day. And I LOVE it too.
You know you’re in Uruguay when…
Argentinian and Uruguayan Spanish accents sound the same to most English-speakers. But when hear these expressions, you KNOW you’re in Uruguay 🙂
A Wall Street banker in Montevideo
Roberto worked in the international banking world for 20 years. Then he gave it all up to return to his home town of Montevideo and live in the Old City.
#GottaLoveUruguay – Tu Piano – music for the people
A piano sits in the open air in a square in Montevideo. And anyone’s welcome to play it. See what happens…
Why we love Montevideo
Montevideo is often overshadowed by Buenos Aires. Three well-travelled bloggers tell what made them fall in love with South America’s off-the-radar capital.
The day Mick Jagger got to experience Real Uruguay
What happened to Mick, is what makes Uruguay completely different from other places. And you don’t need to be world-famous to experience it.
Uruguay president gives hitch-hiker a ride
President picks up hitch-hiker – only in Uruguay. Once again President Pepe Mujica proves that he is made of different stuff from other world leaders.
Why Uruguayans celebrate Tourism Week – not Easter
40% of Roman Catholics live in Latin America but as usual Uruguay does its own thing. There’s complete separation of church and state for almost 100 years.
Things To Do
Montevideo #1 in new travel show
The host of this brand new travel show fell in love with Montevideo. The wine, soccer, carnival, food… so many things to do.
A rainy day in Montevideo? Go to the movies
Montevideo has around more than a dozen movie theatres including 3 non-profit movie theatres. Movies are subtitled so no dubbing.
The carnival whisperer – SOLD OUT for 2020
Your tour guide will be Christine, the “carnival whisperer”. A long-time Uruguay & Montevideo resident, German-American she has a real passion for carnival.
Birdwatching Tour in Punta del Este
See 30-40 bird species as you tour Parque Indigena, a national park on the Maldonado river just ten minutes from Punta del Este and five from La Barra.
Private walking tour of the Old City
Climb the iconic Palacio Salvo, get a feel for carnival and learn juicy facts about the history and architecture. All the while sipping ‘mate’ like a local.
Private City Exploration Of Montevideo
Learn juicy historical background and secrets behind the city’s most beautiful architecture as you tour Montevideo in a private, air-conditioned vehicle.
Academia Uruguay – Learn Spanish in Uruguay
Study Spanish in Academia Uruguay, a friendly language school located in the best place to stay in Montevideo teaching just a handful of students each week.
Tango dancing in Montevideo
Dance tango in Uruguay. Especially if you are a beginner or intermediate tango dancer, the tango scene in Montevideo is much friendlier than Buenos Aires.
San Pedro de Timote – Uruguay’s most historic estancia
For 200 years, Estancia San Pedro de Timote has been the pride of Uruguay. Today it’s a historic country hotel where you can go riding and meet gauchos.
Sailing lessons, boat & windsurf rental in Montevideo
At Full Sailing, you hire a boat, board, kayak or instructor by the hour. It’s a perfect option in Uruguay, where most sailing clubs are members-only.
Learning Spanish in Montevideo
Readers have asked me to recommend a good Spanish language school. Academia Uruguay gets the thumbs up from people I know who have studied there & teachers.
The Montevideo Marijuana Museum
The Cannabis Museum puts the country’s ground-breaking legislation in context and explains, why for Uruguayans, it’s not as radical as you might think.
Montevideo’s Prado neighbourhood
Minutes from downtown, Montevideo’s leafy El Prado district is a photographer’s paradise of ghostly mansions, stately art galleries and tangled greenery.
7 secrets to having the best time in Montevideo
Insider tips to getting the most out of your time in Montevideo including the 25-km rambla, sunsets, wineries, soccer & Disneyland for Carnivores.
The Guru plans – 4 days and nights in Montevideo for you
You should definitely visit Montevideo. Take minimum 4 days, ideally Thursday to Sunday. Tons of things to do, especially February to mid December.
The Gaucho Museum
Most museums in Montevideo are run by the state and free to visit. The Gaucho Museum is located in a fantastic “palacio” worth a visit in its own right.
Parque Rodó – beach, kitsch fairground & Sunday drummers
My favourite park in Montevideo, Parque Rodo has tons of stuff to do for adults and children alike and the best view of the sunset in the city.
The Andes 1972 Museum – one of the great human survival stories of the 20th century
Best things to do in Montevideo – visit the moving Andes 1972 museum which honours the survivors (all Uruguayan) of one of the greatest survival stories of the 20th century.
Tipping & Money
What is the average salary in Uruguay?
I often get asked what salaries are like in Uruguay. If you have any idea of the cost of living, you may be surprised. Figures from July 2020.
Uruguay’s new tax residency requirements
Uruguay’s new government wants to attract immigration. Their first move, on tax residency, is aimed at neighboring Argentines but could benefit you too.
What eating out costs in Uruguay
I often get asked about costs in Uruguay. Get an idea what you are likely to spend on food and drink when eating out at restaurants and bars. UPDATED.
The rights of a surviving spouse in Uruguay
Planning to retire in Uruguay? What are the pros and cons? We continue our series on spouse’s rights and what can you do to protect your husband or wife.
Using credit cards in Uruguay: get 22% VAT off
VAT is deducted *automatically* on car hire, restaurants and… winebars! Huge savings and no last-minute messing at the airport. #GottaLoveUruguay
How much does the Montevideo-Buenos Aires ferry cost?
Following Guru’Guay’s super popular article on the best way to travel Montevideo-Buenos Aires, an update on the current price of ferry and bus tickets.
Beware of dye-marked banknotes
In 2018, a spate of ATM robberies led banks to put dye-packs amongst the bills. Dyed notes were no longer legal tender. The deterrent seems to have worked.
Uruguay currency: Can I use dollars or Argentine pesos in Uruguay?
The answer is: sometimes. You’ll want to have Uruguayan pesos but in places like Colonia they’ll accept dollars, Brazilian reals and Argentine pesos.
Exchanging money in Uruguay – it couldn’t be simpler
Did you know that Uruguay money exchanges don’t charge commission and that ATMs dispense US dollars? Everything you need to know about exchanging money.
Making a will in Uruguay
The truth about inheritance laws–children inherit the estate, not spouses and there’s no tax. Essential reading for anyone living in Uruguay.
Buying property in Uruguay
Moving to Uruguay? Lawyer Mark Teuten goes through legal requirements, taxes and most importantly the costs of buying a house or apartment in Uruguay.
Uruguay has gay friendly business certification
“Businesses welcome guidance around what’s appropriate and respectful.” Uruguay certified the first officially gay friendly market in Latin America.
Can’t withdraw (enough) cash from ATMs in Uruguay?
Some travellers to Uruguay find they cannot withdraw more than 200 USD at a time from ATMs or worse, nothing at all. Guru’Guay has some advice.
Tipping in Uruguay
What to tip waiters, bartenders, taxi drivers…and …do you *really* have to tip the guy who guides you into a parking spot? It’s all here.
Buying tickets for concerts and carnival
You can buy tickets for concerts and carnival shows in Montevideo at box offices and Abitab and Red Pagos/RED UTS – the stores are found all over Uruguay.
When To Visit
It’s sunny and 60° F out – winter in Uruguay
If you are travelling to Uruguay in June, July, August, temperatures may look mild, but you will be in for a surprise if you don’t bring layers.
When is the best time to visit Uruguay?
Avoid high season prices and crowded beaches. See Montevideo at its liveliest. Don’t miss carnival. So when is the best time to visit Uruguay?
Why does the tourist industry in Montevideo close down at peak visitor times?
The truth is out. Montevideans just don’t care that much about taking your tourist dollars. They’d rather spend the holidays with their family and friends.
Top things to do in winter in Uruguay
Between June and August, visit Uruguay for horse-riding, deserted beaches, great culture, live music, bonfire parties, winetasting & whale-watching.
Whale-watch in Uruguay
In Uruguay you can watch whales close-up from the beach. Save yourself an expensive trip to Patagonia & feel great that your viewing generates zero stress.
Montevideo over New Year? 5 things you need to know
Between Christmas & New Year, Montevideans leave town in droves. So what to do you do? There’s still the beaches, tango, fireworks and… water fights!
About Guru’Guay
Guru’Guay’s 2020
2020. Working in the travel sector, you can imagine how we were hit. Guru’Guay chews over the pivots to stay afloat & celebrates Uruguay’s ‘good’ pandemic.
So who’s the guru of Guru’Guay?
Karen A Higgs moved to Uruguay in 2000. Her renowned Guru’Guay travel guides to Uruguay and Montevideo are praised for their passion and soul.
Guru’Guay in the media
Guru’Guay and its creator, Karen A Higgs, have become a reference around the world and in Uruguay for our perceptive take on tourism and living as an expat.
Guru’Guay on Amateur Traveler
Chris Christensen interviews Guru’Guay creator Karen A Higgs about travel and tourism in Uruguay. AT is one of the world’s top 5% most popular podcasts.
Living in Uruguay: Guru’Guay creator celebrates 20 years
The creator of Guru’Guay moved to Uruguay in 2000. She shares an uncanny coincidence that she thinks made URUGUAY her DESTINY.
New Guru’Guay guide to Montevideo out now
Lonely Planet just named Uruguay ‘one of the ten countries you MUST visit in 2020’. Perfect timing as we just released our new travel guide to the capital.
Private consultations: Is Uruguay a great fit for you?
Are you considering a move to Uruguay–full-time, sabbatical or snow-birding–and want expert advice specific to your circumstances?
Guru’Guay in Uruguay’s top 12 influencers
MyUS.com—a site which serves 550,000 expats in 220 countries–named Karen A Higgs along with singer-songwriter Meri Deal and footballer Luis Suarez’s wife.
Press in Uruguay loves the new Guru’Guay guide
A prestigious journal ran a full page quoting Guru’Guay that Uruguay is a holiday destination to rival Argentina or Brazil.
Happy Saint David’s Day from your Welsh woman in Uruguay
I left my native Wales when I was just 18 but March 1, Saint David’s Day, is always a time when I think about my roots. Especially living here in Uruguay.